I
first ventured into Country Wicklow back in January
2002. We took the St Kevin's bus to Glendalough, in
the heart of the Wicklow Gap, which runs all year round
and leaves from outside the College of Surgeons on the
western side of St Stephens Green in Dublin. Glendalough
is a place I'd heard many travellers rave about in all
my years in Ireland, so naturally I was quite looking
forward to seeing just how it measured up. Upon arrival,
I was not disappointed.
| |
Glendalough
comes from the Irish Gleann Dá Locha, which
means "The valley of the two lakes",
and it really is a place to rave about. The lakes
are nestled in the beautiful valley of the Wicklow
Gap, which even in the middle of winter holds
a majestic beauty. The surrounding mountains and
their array of colours are perfectly reflected
in the still water of the larger lake. I was happy
to be here, and even happier to be staying at
the Glendalough International Hostel.
This
hostel is huge. Normally I wouldn't even consider
staying in a large international hostel, but unfortunately
in Glendalough there isn't much choice. It's the
only hostel there. Outside of this there is the
Glendalough hotel, and a couple of nice-looking
B&Bs. |
Most of the accommodation is in the nearby village of
Laragh, three kilometres east of Glendalough. Despite
my reservations we booked into this large international
hostel. Fortunately I was in for a surprise. The Glendalough
Hostel was lovely. Of course with it being January it
wasn't all that busy, but still the place had character
and wasn't impersonal like most big hostels. The dorms
were small, four-bed dorms with en-suite shower and
toilet, and there was a cosy little television and reading
area. The hostel also had a communal kitchen, or a cafeteria
should you prefer not to cook for yourself after hiking
all day. All in all, I was quite impressed.
| We
spent two days here, taking walks around the lake.
We didn't care that it was raining; after all, that's
what raincoats are for. First we walked along the
north shore of the upper lake, which ends at the
zinc mine. Then we ventured out along a trail leading
into the southern part of the lake, with the intention
of making our way up to Spink Mountain. But somehow
we ended up wandering into the vast forest that
lies behind the mountain. |
|
A trail led into this forest and circled around until
returning to roughly where we'd entered. Here we spotted
a set of wooden steps leading up into the mountain.
It was late, but I was curious.
It
must be said here that this hike up the mountain really
should be done at the beginning rather than the end
of a walk. Take note, when you enter the trail from
the lake turn left and not right, or else you will get
here the long way, just like us.
| |
I
must admit putting steps here was a great idea,
especially in the wet. It certainly makes the steep
climb that little bit easier - meaning that although
the climb is hard, you won't slip in the mud and
therefore have to repeat half of the climb again.
The stairs wound consistently upwards through the
forest until finally emerging into the open where
I was astounded by how high we were, and equally
astounded by the breathtaking view before me. |
We
were walking on the edge of the mountain staring down
at the beauty of the lake and surrounding area. There
was no fencing at the edge of what was a sheer drop
into the lake. A wooden walkway had been built for hikers
to walk the rim of the mountain. We walked part of the
way and then turned back. You can walk the entire length
and come back down the mountain the other side, which
then takes you back around the lake along the northern
side and back to the hostel. But that takes a bit longer
and it was already late, so we returned the way we came.
| |
|
The
one thing about Glendalough is that there is no
shop or supermarket. We asked a local woman who
told us about a shop five minutes down the road.
Well, five minutes down the road to a local (who
neglects to tell you they mean by car) often turns
out to be half an hour to a |
| tourist
who is on foot. It soon transpired that the shop
was in Laragh, three kilometres down the road. |
We set out in daylight, and darkness soon fell. With
it came more rain. I must admit I've done some pretty
hair-raising things in my travels, but walking along
a pitch black, narrow country road on a rainy night
is by far one the biggest. It took us over an hour to
get there and back. I certainly had an appetite for
that meal, and for a pint of Guinness in the hotel bar
afterwards.
Before
leaving the next day we had time for a walk around the
ruins. The most prominent feature of Glendalough is
the 33-metre tall round tower; part of the monastic
ruins containing the remains of seven churches and a
graveyard.
| |
Seven
months later I actually got to drive through the
Wicklow Gap. It was summer this time, and the Wicklow
Gap really is one of the most picturesque drives
in Ireland. The surrounding mountains are covered
in purple heather and varying shades of green. The
Wicklow drive follows a small stream which weaves
its way though the valley and finally pours into
the lakes of Glendalough. |
|
Unfortunately this time I wasn't able to stay and
had to drive on past and up to Dublin and Bray. |
I spent the night in Wicklow Town, where once again
I stayed in the Wicklow Bay Hostel. It's quite a big
place with plenty of comfortable sofas, and a large
well equipped kitchen and dining room. The hostel sits
nestled between the sea and the river. The owners, Carmel
and Brendan, are extremely friendly and always extend
a warm welcome.
Wicklow Town isn't exactly the most exciting place in
Ireland, but I found it quite pleasant. The colourful
Leitrim Lounge offers good pints of Guinness and there
are a few sights to see. You can take a leisurely walk
along the beach or the river, or through the town. But
most of all, it's a great base from which to explore
the Wicklow Mountains.
St
Kevin's bus service: 01-2818119
Glendalough
International Hostel: 0404-45143
The
Wicklow Bay Hostel: 0404-69213, visit their website.
